Inti Wara Yassi (IWY): 4 Weeks in the Bolivian Jungle December 23, 2009

Laura has a crazy fringe.  Bebe loves to cuddle.  Octavio, despite rumors and warnings, is one of the sweetest monkeys in the park.

Bolivia boasts some of the highest South American attractions, the majority above 3,500 meters.  After discovering my natural distaste for altitude, and paying an exorbitant amount for a tourist visa, I decided to find a cozy haven at sea level for an extended stay.  I´d heard about Inti Wara Yassi (IWY) from other travelers on my way south and after little deliberation or planning, I grabbed a van to Villa Tunari and into the world of Parque Machia and the Bolivian jungle.

IWY - Parque Machia

The park is located on the edge of the amazon basin, along the only major highway connecting Cochabamba and Santa Cruz.  The land allocated for the park is far beyond capacity and slowly disappearing due to erosion.  Government owned, the park is under imminent threat, as plans are solidified to build a road through the remaining land as a means to decrease coca trafficking.  And amidst it all, hundreds of animals try to survive the mayhem.

A Look Inside Parque Machia: The Negros (Spider Monkeys)

The park is a refuge for many indigenous animals: monkeys, pumas, a spectacle bear, ocelots, birds, and turtles.  For consistency, each volunteer is assigned a section of the park for the duration of their stay.  And so I landed among 29 spider monkeys (collectively referred to as ¨The Negros¨).  The long days were monotonous at first – preparing meals, feeding, cleaning, walking the corded monkeys, and trying to steer clear of monkey bites (yes, they bite!).  Most of the spider monkeys are rescued from homes, markets (where they´re sold illegally), hotels, and circuses, and given their dysfunctional backgrounds, they collectively form a dysfunctional group.  Some commonly attack other monkeys within the group, wild monkeys constantly threaten the park´s monkeys and volunteers typically find themselves with a sling shot (literally), somewhere in the middle.  At first, 29 black monkeys all look the same and their unpredictability is quite daunting.  Over time, you begin to recognize faces, you learn their stories, become more confident, and the experience transforms.  Dona has almond shaped eyes.  Iggy was a circus monkey.  Ramona, despite being anti-social, is quite maternal.  And Negra loves beets and an afternoon foot bath in the water bowl.

Living and Working in Parque Machia

Where do you find the motivation to trudge through the fourth 11 hour day of torrential rains, in the same set of clothes that never completely dry?  Or the smell of monkey urine and poo that never leaves your clothes and inevitably invades your room and bed?  The moldy film that coats all of your belongings and wet feet that slowly rot over 30 consecutive days in rubber boots?  You discover new emotional and physical boundaries, certainly.  And there are 50 other volunteers who share your scabs, parasites, war wounds, and fatigue.  Beyond that, they also share your passion and enthusiasm.

For every moment of pessimism – the horrendous morning when you can´t get out of bed, when one too many sand flies attack, or you can´t bear to think about cleaning another dirty cage – there are equally numerous occasions that amaze, make you fall in love, and make it really hard to leave.  Unfortunately, this entry covers only a mere portion of the experience.  The pure volume of stories could eventually bore the most patient of listeners (and has!).

A month later, I still hear their voices echo in the strangest places, picture their faces in my mind, and their graceful bounce through the trees.  And I thank them, and all of the wonderful people I´ve met, for letting me into their world.

From there to here, from here to there, funny things are everywhere. -Dr. Seuss

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