Becoming an Aunt: Parker Austin September 26, 2010

The Self-Absorbed Backpacker

With South America whisked away, I made my first true trip home after 15 months (this excludes the tumultuous 23 hour Atlanta lay-over the previous September).  As days turn into months, living a perpetual summer, without note of public holidays or work weeks, it’s surprisingly easy to forget that life moves on at home and in other corners of the world.  The updates and the excited news via email or skype are somehow intangible.  Not that you shrug it off, but it’s surreal – it’s difficult to process.

My sister’s pregnancy began not long after her visit to Ecuador.  I didn’t really “get it” until I opened an email 6 months later with a 20-week ultrasound, and a side-profile of a chick with boobs who strikingly resembled my sister.  (My sister never had boobs!)

Though Amanda would never pressure or make me feel guilty for my absence, I had missed one of the biggest and most exciting times of her life.  And all those months away suddenly seemed like a long time.

So I planned an immediate re-route…to Midlothian, Virginia – 8 days post due-date.

Meeting Parker

It was a wonderful experience.  To see the transformation as my sister became a mother, and a couple become a family.  At the risk of sounding horrible, I didn’t know how I was going to feel about having a stranger in the house.  But yes, I did immediately fall in love and it was actually impossible to look at him and even consider selfishness.  My stories seemed less important, even though Amanda would have given her last ounce of energy trying to listen.  Parker is a sweet, content boy, has a smile that lights the room and a cry rarely heard.  And my sister is an outstanding mother, she trouble shoots with humor, is light hearted and graceful.

My post-Patagonia Parker stop was a humbling visit, and in many ways took me away from myself.  I used this homecoming as an opportunity to be the audience.  And the rewards were amazing.

Post-Buenos Aires Excursions September 3, 2010

No starker a contrast than that of Buenos Aires to Patagonia.  44 hours due south via Andesmar transit, and despite the added delays due to drug sniffing dogs and a horrid book, it was worth every hour.  It’s difficult to describe the anticipation after a long bus ride and two months of endless BA nights, but it met every expectation.

Patagonia is in every way and form, pristine: the air, the land, the towering mountains, and drinkable glacial waters.  I passed several weeks trekking the Fitz Roy mountain range, visiting the stunning Perito Moreno glacier in El Calafate, biking the perimeter of the lakes of Bariloche, and the magical wooden sculpting of El Bolson.

The Interior

Every busy mind needs the soul food of southern Argentina.  And when you get into the quieter regions you can truly feel the pulse of the people.  They’re inquisitive, open, warm, enthusiastic and eager to know.  Without any scientific basis I award “Most Friendly South American Country” to the Argies, for two reasons: the economy, and mate.

The Economy

Many South American countries are relying more and more on tourism for economic stability; Ecuador has become a commonly traveled country and with the growing prominence and popularity of Machu Picchu, Peru has become inundated with tourists.  As a result, the experience has become much more commercial and often less authentic.  Unfortunately, locals tend to have more interest in a wallet than a person.  Argentina, though touristy as well, benefits from greater economic stability than some of its South American counterparts, and as a result, there is less financial incentive in befriending visitors.

The Tea that United a Nation

The entire country is completely enchanted by this bitter yet lovely tea.  It’s a morning, noon and evening staple.  Argentines buy, travel, share and drink the beautiful “yerba” by the pounds and nothing is more uniting.  Shared in elaborate cups, with metal straws called bombillas, it’s designed to drink in groups.  The ritual is deeply ingrained; whether stranger or friend, on the street or at home, Argentines are eager to share, to chat, and to learn.

15 Months in Central and South American – Come and Gone

It was a perfect ending to an epic trip of the “other Americas” – with time to reflect on a year well spent, lessons learned, languages discovered, moments of discomfort, but many more, awe.

No sight that human eyes can look upon is more provocative of awe than is the night sky scattered thick with stars. -Llewelyn Powys